a place of the past

When we talk about history, our stories tend to drift to a person, a place, or event – almost always in relation to human activity. We trace our steps back through time to relive the moments and experiences of who and what came before us. We discuss art and architecture. Advances in civilization. Major discoveries and inventions. What human hands have built and what human hands have destroyed. We, as humans, seem to have this insatiable desire for development and progress. Our war machine constantly churns. So much of what once was could never withstand the test of time – not with our endless need for consumption and our compulsion toward destruction. A great many things have been lost as a result. Cut down and cut short by ballot, bullet, bomb, or bulldozer. 

Just like people, places have memories. Their stories, their trauma, their growth and their decline are all experienced – as we experience our own. Just as the body keeps the score, so too does the land. It holds onto its history. There is energy and its expression – something that can be felt as well as seen. We bear witness to art and architecture. To creation and destruction. To invention and evolution. And none is the result of human hands. Because these things are not man made. It is the work of mother nature and mother nature alone. 

But we don’t often visit a wild place to experience it beyond what we see before our eyes in the present day. If we want a history lesson, we go to a museum. Most likely, we’re out in nature for the trees, never questioning their age or existence. Or perhaps we are there for a scenic view or some destination water feature. Who doesn’t love a waterfall? There are various trails to trek or a summit to ascend. Could be pretty… or could be pretty unremarkable – that is, if we even bother to pay attention to where we are. How the majority of us experience the natural world today is a discussion in and of itself. To be IN nature, WITH nature, SURROUNDED by nature, and still somehow folks remain so disconnected from it. It is a byproduct of our modern society – to maintain these dysfunctional, detached, and disengaged relationships – with each other, with our communities, and with our surroundings. That has to change. As we work to build more meaningful and authentic connections with ourselves and with one another, so too, must we build more meaningful and authentic connections with the land.

What did these mountains, hills, and boulders bear witness to? As humans picked clean the bones of a place? As their communities became barren wastelands? As their kin was cut from the root? As their soils eroded and wildfires burned? How long have they waited for their new neighbors to seed, take root, and rebuild what was lost?

What did this place feel like before? Were land spirits present and alive? What beings called it home? How many trees were felled? How much ground was paved over? How much wetland was dried up and filled in? What was misplaced? What might now be extinct or endangered? How young is the flora in comparison to the age of the land? How fortunate is a natural area to have escaped development in the name of progress? 

A Natural Relic

By 1900, the forests of Pennsylvania were devastated – with our state having lost more than 60 percent of them. The flattened landscape left was prone to soil erosion and wildfires – nothing but smoke and stumps. In a state of 28.7 million acres that was once almost completely tree covered, only a few hundred acres of true old growth was spared. The rest fell victim to the great deforestation – an unregulated logging industry mining for building materials, ship masts, and for charcoal. Our regional hemlocks and oaks were felled and stripped of their bark for leather making in the tannery business. All of this happening all around it, and yet, this boreal relic from the land before time remained. 

To someone unfamiliar, the Tannersville Cranberry Bog could be considered unremarkable – with its stunted trees, precarious “walking” conditions, lack of plant diversity (at least at first glance), less than scenic views, and required guided tours. But in reality, the bog is anything but unremarkable. 

Thousands of years ago, a glacial lake once occupied this space that is now known as the Tannersville Cranberry Bog – a 1,000 acres of land protected under The Nature Conservancy. A bog like this is created over hundreds or thousands of years, formed when plant matter decays in a lake and begins to fill it. Peat deposits start building as the plants die and decay and the water turns acidic. The water is collected by precipitation and is held there by these layers through absorption. Bogs are freshwater, and in spite of the large amounts of decaying plant matter, they are very poor in nutrients. While the ice and lake have long receded, the bog remains – smack dab in the middle of the civilization that now surrounds it. This ecosystem represents an intricate transformation that took place over thousands of years – impossible to replace or replicate.  

A considerable portion of the bog is covered with a boreal forest of black spruce and tamarack, two conifers normally found in Canada, at the southern limit of their range. It is the presence of these two Canadian conifers amidst an array of plant life unique to a boreal bog that makes the Tannersville Cranberry Bog such an incredible place to experience.

The beauty of the bog is hidden in its history, beneath its surface, in its ecological function, and the particular life it sustains within its unique ecosystem. The site was designated a National Natural Landmark in December 1974. The Cranberry Bog is nothing short of a natural treasure, a geological remnant of a long-ago ice age. 

What’s a Bog?

A bog is one of several different types of wetlands that also include marshes, swamps, and fens. Each has their own distinct characteristics – defined by the flora and fauna they support. They are places which are neither land nor water. While other types of wetlands are very nutrient-rich, bogs are characterized by their lack of nutrients and relative inability to support large plant life. They have  no drainage or inflow. No water gets in other than rain or snow and no water gets out except for evaporation. Bogs support plant and animal life that have adapted towards water-logged conditions, low nutrients, and acidic waters. The conditions of this unique habitat make them critically important to the species that live there.

The plant life you’ll find are high bush blueberry, leatherleaf, cranberry, sheep laurel, bog laurel, swamp azalea, and on the outskirts, rhododendron. Two others, bog rosemary and Labrador tea, are among the state’s rarer plants. Sedges and other plants typical of wetlands dominate the more nutrient-rich portions. There are two species of insectivores: the gorgeous, vibrant pitcher plant and alien-like sundew, which are found in the more open, sunny areas of the bog. Other beautiful and fascinating bog plants include grass-pink orchid, white-fringed orchid, rose pogonia, yellow lady slipper, and (formerly recorded but not seen in recent years) heart-leaf twayblade. There are also wild calla, cotton grass, poison sumac, the rare yellow-eyed grass and the rare dwarf mistletoe which grows as a parasite on the black spruce.

Bogs serve an incredibly important function – acting like a sponge – with vegetation and detritus breaking down incredibly slowly. Our sponge, the Cranberry, cleanses and controls pollution throughout the Pocono Creek watershed. Bogs aid in the proper cycling of nutrients and pollutants. They are carbon sinks, infinitely valuable in their ability to remove this greenhouse gas from the atmosphere due to their remarkably slow rate of decay. They are considered one of the most valuable ecosystems in the world. 

A Land Before Time

Walking the bog is like stepping through a portal and transporting to a different time. Here I am, standing in a boreal ecosystem formed by glaciers thousands of years ago. I shut out the modern world and soak in something prehistoric – as if I were the peat moss itself. Everything is quiet and still. Civilization and man made sounds are obscured. The bog, both in aesthetics and function, is in essence, a giant sponge – densely packed with sphagnum moss, also known as peat moss. This sphagnum is super absorbent – plushy like a pillow. This, coupled with layers of dead vegetation beneath, create a bog’s foundation.

The bog is a tactile place. The textures are exquisite. Lichen of many species cover bark and branches. There are the sharp edges of a sedge grass blade. The delicate hairs of a carnivorous pitcher plant. The vibrant cranberry globes in stark contrast to the muted brown landscape of autumn. The plush blankets of moss with their brilliant hues which vary in color – emerald, lime, amber, crimson, and sepia tones. Even the otter scat, left atop the bog boardwalk, has remnants of undigested crayfish shells, flecking as the piles deteriorate. 

There is a duality in this place – both fluid and solid, velvety and dense. There’s a richness to its water, steeped this vibrant and luxurious brown. It sits below, alongside, and within the spaces between hummocks, all at some indiscernible depth. These floating islands  house the life above ground and are smattered across the surface of the bog. Depending where, to step off a hummock, might mean losing your boot – sinking a few inches, a foot, or several. 

This bog emits an ancient energy – purposeful and radiant in its deliberate infiniteness. Here, you can see and experience life in slow motion. Here, time is both frozen and unbound. To wander the bog, is to let modern civilization slip away and in its stead, experience an extraordinary place of the past, one that would be irreplaceable if ever it were damaged or destroyed. 

PLEASE NOTE: Because of its fragile nature, the bog can only be visited during regularly scheduled walks by guided access only. Find out more about the Tannersville Cranberry Bog HERE

the otter.

It’s 1:00 AM when I step out from the cozy warmth of this tiny cabin I get to call home for the next few days. The chill is crisp and sharp, as is the darkness. The forest at night is reduced to shades of blue and black. Blue, the open space of air and sky. Black, the backdrop of tree silhouettes towering around you, the slightly sloping hills in the distance, the soft earth underneath your boots. The sky is full of wooly, expansive clouds that obscure a Waxing Gibbous moon which softly illuminates the thick floating puffs as if they were ambient lanterns, huddled densely in the celestial canopy. 

Our eyes only just begin to adjust once we reach the water, where the scene becomes a watercolor of indigo and onyx, a brand new way to take in my favorite view, my special place, beneath the pines by the lake. A divergence of earth, water, and sky. Home and habitat to wild things that thrive in all three. Most notable for its nesting Bald Eagles. A place so familiar in the daylight, so foreign in the witching hours. We simply become part of the night, blending in with the shadowscapes, silently taking in all the wonder and beauty under the camouflage of darkness. Inconspicuous are we, here in the wild wood, where time and space move differently.

A misty rain drizzles down and like a gentle sea mist as I look out over the water. I close my eyes and tilt my head back, letting the tiny droplets wash over me. Giant but gentle gusts of wind break the still surface of the lake, building waves that hungrily lap my feet where water meets the land. Billowy froth forms in clumps, swirling in the shallows. Their milky forms a stark contrast to the stone and pebble below. The wind carries with it my wonder – across the water, through the trees, and up into the cloud-laden skies above. If this isn’t magic, I don’t know what is.   

Seemingly out of nowhere, a slender-sleek silhouette glides effortlessly through the rippling lake to my left. She’s a few shades darker than the water so I can just make out her form. The splash of a talented swimmer propelling forward, more graceful and nondescript than the break of tiny waves formed from the wind cutting into the water’s surface. We see her before she sees us. An eager husband pushes the soft button of a headlamp to catch a quick glimpse before she’s gone. Just as eager to put a name to form, I too can’t help myself, whispering out loud when the light finally catches her body, “Oh my goodness, an otter! Hello there!” The artificial light beams straight at her like a tiny lighthouse. Coupled with my non-natural sound of escaped excitement, it cautions the otter to dip below the surface, disappearing beneath the blue-black surface, re-emerging a few feet away. We watch in awe as she makes her way around the curvaceous bend of the shoreline, fading into the darker shades of the night, sailing towards the swamp lands. 

———-

If you want to talk of enchantment for a moment, I shall tell you of the card I pulled the evening before as I sat at the small wooden table of Cabin #5, its wood worn and weathered smooth from decades of use, like a weary tumbled stone. I always bring my oracle cards with me on camping adventures. I tend to receive affirmations and messages with much more clarity out there than at home, especially when seeking wisdom from the wild world – as I listen closely to what the flora and fauna of the spiritual sense have to say. I chose to consult with the Woodland Wardens that night – as they always seem to convey a timely message, especially when I feel a bit shaky on my present course. The card revealed Otter and Cattail – a card representative of peace, calm, and tranquility. 

Was the otter just doing her otter thing out there during her stealthy late night voyage? Surely. She didn’t expect me to be wandering around in the dark after midnight, pulled over and idling in the shallow shoulder of her lake water interstate. Nor did I expect to see her in that moment, even when knowing that otters are more nocturnal and crepuscular than they are daytime hustlers. I’ve seen the signs, empty snail shells in abundance along the swampy water’s edge. But for as many times as I have visited this same place, Otter herself was nowhere to be found. Only remnants left, of a meal fit for a Queen, cracked shells popping and crunching beneath my feet.

Enchantment can come about in the form of a happenstance encounter, one that might not be so serendipitously coincidental for a wild woman who needs Otter energy at this time. Peace is the word best described for this wild place I have loved since childhood. It’s what I can’t help but feel every time I am there. I breathe it in. I fill my lungs with it – all damp earth and fresh pine. And there she happened to be, this symbolic representation of joy, of tranquility, gliding flawlessly towards a cluster of cattails, just around the bend.

inclement weather.

Hiking in the rain is akin to hiking after a powdery snowfall. Much like its frozen counterpart, the rain shrouds a forest in stillness, something rarely found in the buzzing heat of a summer day. Precipitation brings about a special kind of peace and solitude, something that can only accompany inclement weather.

The fallen leaves, soaked through to the soil below, glisten their reds, yellows, and oranges amidst the patches of once green ferns, now lemon and rust, that sway in a gentle breeze which sweeps the forest floor, almost as silent as you. A woman can move without a sound amid the dank and decomposing deciduous confetti beneath her boots.

The moss, at the water’s edge, swollen with the last two days of rainfall, becomes a lush and loamy tapestry beneath her feet, flattening underfoot, and then slowly rising once again to resume its luxuriant form as the boot lifts away. The Sphagnaceae reminiscent of Lewis Carroll’s Mome Raths.

The scent of damp, dark earth surrounds her. If only, she thinks to herself, there was a way to bottle it and keep it, breathing in its elemental magic, infused with the kind of healing properties she will find nowhere else but here, in this moment. Under the trees, the scent of pine rises up to greet her from the fallen needles below.

The birds flit and flutter at ground level. Are you a warbler, little friend? She sees you there, peeking through the thick bramble of the low lying shrubs, with your white underbelly, dusty gray body, and bright splash of lemon. Little bird who is quick-footed and fast to fly, always outwitting the curious observer longing for a proper identification of her allusive feathered forest companion.

White-breasted Nuthatches dance on the thick trunks and bare branches of the mighty Eastern White Pine. A crow calls in the distance overhead, obscured by the overcast sky – a body-less caw on the wind.

Around the bend, where the stream flows to greet the lake, the swamp smells of fish, so intrusive in the misty air, it’s as if she is holding a fresh catch right there in her own two hands.

All the autumnal browns of the lake and swamp vegetation that are making their transition into death are heightened by the muted gray backdrop of a sunless, fog-laden sky. The perfect contrast.

It’s as if she and this wild place have been plucked straight from the vastness of the world and gently tucked inside a water globe. The dense fog is the frost-covered glass of the dome, the gods giving it a shake so that a gentle rain falls all around her, dampening the intrusive sounds of an outside world she can no longer see.

Tiny droplets pool at the sharp edge of a pine needle, pulling and drooping the bundles down towards the ground. The fallen bundle together in pockets and coves to create a golden mosaic that floats and swirls atop a calm, reflective canvas. There is the pitter patter drum beat of droplets as they hit the water’s surface, creating ripples and waves that draw her into a state of soothing meditation.

She, and this swath of forest, lake, and swamp, are encased in a fog-laden wonderland of a grand and wild design.